Back in April LONGEVITY held its "Know Your Skin Type" master class hosted by our founder and master estheticion, Elizabeth Kosky. It was a great turnout and attracted many, new clients to LONGEVITY Skincare. Attendees were excited to learn the science backed reasons why we should all take a special interest in knowing why our skin type is unique. Elizabeth shared how to pair personalized ingredients and products with our unique skin type for amazing results in creating healthy, glowing skin.
More recently Elizabeth attended a four day cosmetic chemistry program at UCLA in Westwood, California. While there she immersed herself in learning the background information of those complicated names you find on the ingredient listing on the back label of your skincare products. These often complicated ingredients are actually important, they are not just thrown in there to confuse the consumer. Just because the name sounds "sciencey" does not mean it's a good or bad ingredient for your skin. There is plenty of research going on that backs up the use of ingredients with confounding names like epigallocatechin gallatyl glucoside. EGCG is a concentrated, time-released, soothing antioxidant from Green Tea which helps prevent signs of inflammation and relieve visible redness. Or, phytosphingosine which is a lipid that is a natural component of your skin's protective barrier layer, and is great for sensitive, reactive or dehydrated skin. The job of the esthetician is to be able to decipher difficult sounding ingredients and decide whether it is appropriate for her client's individual needs with the goal of improving the health of their skin. To that end it is imperataive for you to know your skin type. The best way to do this is to make a visit to an experienced licenced esthetician who will examine your skin and make helpful recommendations based on her skin analysis. As you can see, Elizabeth works hard to update her knowledge so that she can offer advice, based on the most recent scientific research and information.
Your skin is unique. Pay attention to all the aspects of your skin. When an esthetician looks at your skin she will take into consideration all of the following factors below:
It is not always practical to get to an experienced esthetician. At LONGEVITY skincare we try to keep it simple but we want to make sure you're getting an accurate assessment of your skin. So, Elizabeth created sixteen skin types where you can determine an accurate picture of your skin and be more effective with your product selection choices.
Go to go to our Skin Types page to help you decide which skin type is most fitting for your skin.
Our Skin Types chart focuses on the following:
Secretion - How much oil (sebum) your skin is producing. Because of hormones and genetics each individual produces different amounts of sebum. This will change with age. Sebum production will determine the weight of the products you choose. If the product is too light you will be lacking the appropriate protection from dehydration and environmental aggressors. If the product is too heavy you risk clogged pores and trapping in heat and bacteria that may lead to breakouts.
Hydration - How much moisture is in your skin. Water is essential for soft, smooth skin and proper uptake of nutrients and oxygen that keep skin healthy. Dehydrated skin looks dull, feels tight or stingy and may even be flaking. This is differant form sebum (oil) levels. You can be both oily and dehydrated at the same time. Oily, dehydrated skin is more likely to get clogged pores because the hardened dehydrated cells at the skin's surface can trap in oil underneath. Superficial dehydration will exacerbate fine lines. Deep dehydration in the lower layers (the dermis) leads to wrinkles. Adding a hyaluronic acid serum grabs onto water (about 1000 times its weight in water) and can rehydrate your skin. Hyaluronic acid is oil free and therefore fairly light weight. However, if you also have dry skin you should follow with an emollient cream to keep that water from evaporating out into the air. One of the most common causes of dehydrated skin, besides an arrid environment is cleansing with or using products containing drying alhohol or detergents. Gentle products are the way to go.
Tone - How tightly your skin is connected to bones & muscles underneath. Skin tone is most often affected by a loss of skin supporting collagen and elastin fibers. This is a direct result of ultra violet exposure from the sun (extrinsically) and a loss of fat due to weight loss, gravity and age (intrinsically). Beyond weight loss, the loss of fat under the skin is hugly affected by hormone changes. As estrogen levels begin to decline, the skin thins and folds or wrinkles appear due to the loss of collagen and elastin fibers in the dermal layer. Tone can be manage to some extent by the use of achitectural peptides to reinforce collagen fibers and growth factors to send the right messages signalling the body to go into repair mode.
Texture - How smooth and even the surface of your skin is. This takes into consideration textual changes from the sun as well as the size of your pores. Though pore size is inherited, for many skins the pores tend to get larger with age. This is because of the flattening of a wave like papillary layer in the dermis. When skin flattens out, pores that were once tight relax. But, with other skins the pores seem to disappear as oil production slows down and the oil glands atrophy. Growth factor serums, Peels and Microdermabrasion are effective treatments for to help minimize these textural changes.
Circulation - Effects whether skin is getting the proper nutrition it needs. Undercirculated skin looks dull and often has a grey appearence because it is lacking nutrients, oxygen and water. Under-Circulated Skin is less sensitive but may become dull, lax and develop unwanted pigmentation. Dull skin needs one to focus on improving circulation, nutrients, oxygen and water to feed the cells of your skin. Undercirculated skin benefits from botanicals that boost circulation like rosemary and ginseng. Massage is also effective. Overcirculated skin is connected to increased reactivity and skin sensitivity. Often showing rosacea-like symptoms of redness and irritation. Over-Circulated Skin means blood rushes up too easily to the skin's surface causing redness and skin reactivity. Chronic inflammation can lead to premature aging of the skin by damaging cells. Those with Over-Circulated skin must focus on ways to calm the skin before addressing other factors of aging. When it comes to treating acne remember acne is more a problem of inflamation rather than just oil secreation. When one suffers from acne they need to concentrate on calming the skin down first. Since overcirculted skin is often very reactive it needs gentle soothing treatment and products. Azulene and Licorice Root are two botanically based ingredients that work well for calming the skin and reducing redness. Sensitivity can be defined as how close to the surface of the skin your capillaries and nerve endings are located.
Pigmentation - irregular changes in skin color. Pigmentation changes are mostly connected with sun exposure and hormone changes. Pigmentation irregularities may not show themselves for decades after the damage has occured. Estrogen surpresses the expression of age spots and the like. When estrogen levels drop, even if you are now using daily sunscreen protection and avoiding the sun, the aquired pigmentation changes rise to the skin's surface to become visable. Regular exfoliation with Retinols and AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) help rid the skin of the more pigmented cells. Try alternating these two ingredients. Serums containing niacinamide (a potent B vitamin and antioxidant) help minimize the chemical changes that occur that stimulate the over production of pigment. Vitamin C Esters are excellent antioxidants that help correct and prevent pigmentation issues when used on a daily basis.
At one time I created a 64 skin type chart that took into account all the subtle differences and combinations that make up your skin type. I eventually decided that was a bit excessive and overwhelming. Most clients (and my estheticians) appreciated something a bit simpler. If you want to get into the nitty gritty of individual skin types you should consider booking a Skin Therapy Treatment. However the 16 point chart works very well for the majority of our clients who purchase their products online.
PRODUCT SELECTION
Not everyone is willing to go all out and adopt an extensive skincare program that may include as many as twelve products. Just like choosing the amount of exercise you do, your skincare regime should be at a level where you feel comfortable. Just know that an extensive routine will provide a better payoff. Just like professional athletes work harder to achieve a more athletic body.
THE BASIC COLLECTION
THE ADVANCED COLLECTION
THE COMPLETE COLLECTION
My (Elizabeth) Skincare Regimen
I want to do the absolute best for my skin so I choose a complete collection of products. Many of you have asked. So, at the time of this posting (which is heading into winter in 2023) here is my personal regime:
AM routine:
CLEANSER: Refresh - A slightly stimulating milky cleanser that jumpstarts my somewhat dull, dehydrated skin, giving it moisture and a nice youthful glow.
TONER: Rainwater - A super hydrating toner to sweep away impurities from tapwater while supplying needed moisture using soothing humectants.
DAILY SERUM: C & E Antioxidant Serum - helps protect me from UV damage but during the winter I am also adding a pump of QUELL - to boost my skin's barrier against the arid winter air. Now that I'm older my skin doesn't have the same barrier protection it once had. My skin starts feeling tight, and dehydrated as soon as the heat comes on in our home if I don't add protection to fortify my barrier.
SUNSCREEN: Brightening Day Protection SPF 50 - with peptides, hydrators and brighteners. I love this sunscreen because it feels so comfortable on my skin.
PM routine:
CLEANSER: Creme Frachie - A great cleanser for removing makeup and sunscreen as a double cleans. I not only cleanse twice when removing makeup but I use a bamboo baby wash cloth in doing so.
TONER: Rainwater Toning Mist - provides a hydrating cushion that makes the products to follow more efficiently absorbed and more active for their purpose.
EXFOLIATION: I rarely use a scrub as my mature skin is thinner and more sensitive.
Getting Even - is a cocktail of AHAs that disolve the bonds that hold old, dried out surface cells to the skin. This instantly gives a fresher look while disolving cells that contribute to uneven pigmentation, a rough texture and blocked pores. I use Getting Even twice a week.
Level Up - This retinol serum is more potent than Retinol Resurfacing. You only use a pea size amount for its clever skin cell reprograming ability to organize surface cells, creating a nicer skin texture as well as jumpstarting signals for increased collagen production which means firmer skin over time. note: Level Up needs a few minutes before applying your repair serum.
REPAIR SERUMS: Stem Stim - is a growth factor serum that contains skin identical molecules that provide cell signaling messges to coax skin to stimulate repair. This stem cell derived media offers the correct mixture of growth factors for optimal skin rejuvenation while potent Peptides and Vitamin C further aid in collagen synthesis. I add 5 drops of this remarkable serum to 2 pumps of Revitalize Cell Therapy - This is a cocktail of longevity based ingredients. I choose this formula because of its pro-energizing ingredients like niacinamide, ergothionene, reveratrol and astaxanthin.
EYE TREATMENT: Regenerize Eye Serum is a light weight serum that employs architectural peptides to gently firm the area around the eyes. I tap a small amount on crowsfeet and around the orbital bone each night.
NECK TREATMENT: Crepe Escape is a neck cream based on apple stem cells which is known as a super antioxidant. It the perfect weight for the often ignored moisture needs of the neck
MOISTURIZER: Because my skin is dry, a bit sensitive and gets a bit dehydrated when my home heating revs up I choose the lusciously emollient Phytolipid Recovery Creme.
NECK CREAM: Now that it's winter I'm super conscientious about my saving neck. Crepe Escape is a wonderful and popular choice based on antioxidants from apple stem cells.
As an added bonus I often perform an at home facial which includes a scrub (only occasionally), a repair serum (Stem Stim) and a wonderful overnight sleeping mask (Good Nite).
Hope this has been helpful. Please join us for the next time we do a master class at
LONGEVITY by Elizabeth Renee.
Elizabeth believes in "Longevity Skincare", the idea that beautiful skin can endure throughout one's lifetime when utilizing the best that science and nature has to offer. LONGEVITY is a science-based skincare line that appreciates skin of all ages. LONGEVITY by Elizabeth Renee provides hydration, nutrition and protection from environmental aging. Your skin will receive high performance ingredients to help energize and repair its cells, resulting in a healthy skin with an enduring, vital glow.