Skin Quality

As a young esthetician I briefly worked for the famed dermatologist, Dr Thomas Fitzpatrick. He was the creator of the Fitzpatrick Scale. This was a way of skin typing patients according to how their skin responded to sun exposure. He was doing a series of lectures entitled, “Cutaneous Homeostasis”. Which simply meant how to achieve healthy skin quality.

When I do skin therapy for my clients I start with a skin analysis, which examines many of the inherited qualities and current conditions of their skin. This skin typing is an essential part of initial skin therapy to determine the correct protocol for each individual client. This can be updated as skin changes occur over time.

Skin Quality is defined as the overall health, appearance, and functionality of skin. It is the part of skin analysis that is characterized by six key, measurable factors that strive towards skin perfection:

1. Secretion: Determining the amount of sebum (oil) one produces is invaluable for choosing the right products for an individuals basic skincare regimen. Things like, what cleanser, toner and moisturizer are chosen with secretion in mind. Oily skin clients may benefit from a detergent free but slightly sudsing cleanser while a dry skin client generally needs an emollient emulsion of oil and water, which creates a creamy cleansing milk. The richness of your cleanser rests on the degree of oiliness or dryness in your individual skin.

   
   

2. Hydration: The next thing I look at is how much moisture is in their skin. This is exclusive to the amount of oil you produce because one can be oily and still feel tight or dry because of the lack of water in your skin. Superficial dehydration means one is lacking water in the surface layers of the skin. Upon examination superficially dehydrated skin has tiny, slightly visible lines that, under a magnifying light, appear to look like that of an onion skin. Dehydrated skin benefits from products that contain humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid. These ingredients attract and hold onto water. Water feeds the skin and transports important nutrients to the cells. This keeps skin looking fresh and radiant. This is where moisturizers are so important. A moisturizer provides a protective barrier that holds moisture in. This is true even for an oily skin. The emollients in a moisturizer are determined by both secretion and hydration of the skin. Little known fact is that hyaluronic acid is actually manufactured in the lower layer of the skin (the dermis). This hyaluronic acid adds to skin hydration and firmness. Traditional hyaluronic acid products cannot get deep enough to feed this layer. If you have deep dehydration one should look for three dimensional hyaluronic acid where this large molecule is chopped up into small enough particles to travel deeper into your skin. You should also consider a toner. An alcohol free toner is like a drink of water for your skin. A spitz of toner seals moisture in your skin when followed by a moisturizer.

   
   

3. Tone: In this case we’re talking about skin firmness. Quality skin is strong, elastic, and youthful-looking skin that resists sagging due to balanced collagen and elastin and glycosaminoglycans (including hyaluronic acid) that support the skin structure. As skin matures it tends to looses tone. This is due to many things. First among them is DNA damage from sun. Pollution, poor diet, lack of sleep and stress are all factors. There is also mitochondrial depletion. Mitochondria are the energy producing organelles in cells. This energy drives metabolism and repair. Energy can be boosted by ingredients like Niacinamide, Ergothienine (from mushrooms) and Ginseng. An important ingredient to consider are growth factors. Natural Growth factors and their associated collagen-producing fibroblasts found in the skin decrease by approximately 1% every year starting in our mid-20s to early 30s. This decline accelerates significantly during the 40s and 50s, particularly during menopause, leading to thinner, more fragile skin and reduced repair capabilities. Newer growth factors attached to oleosomes penetrate skin more effectively and stay fresher longer than their predecessors. During a skin analysis an esthetician will determine where your skin tone is at currently and which performance ingredients will be most effective for your skin. This is a lifelong process, so there is no short term solution barring surgery. However, prevention and following lifestyle recommendations from your esthetician offer the best results.

   
   

4. Texture: Quality skin has a smooth, soft, even texture without visible pores, fine lines, or rough patches. Exfoliation is a wonderful tool for keeping skin smooth. It not only whisks away dull surface cells but helps stimulate the production of newer, fresher cells. Exfoliation can be done via retinoids, acids (like lactic and glycolic), scrubs and enzymes. We are changing our belief on how aggressive one should exfoliate. No longer do we believe that stronger is better. Sure you can get a medical peel that requires down time for healing raw inflamed skin but don’t do it too often or your skin will take on an unnatural waxy appearance. For regular at home exfoliation look to your esthetician for guidance. Which exfoliant and how often you exfoliate should be determined by your skin's thickness and resilience.

   
   

5. Circulation: Good quality skin has balanced circulation. Blood should feed the skin cells via the capillaries by supplying vital nutrients and oxygen to skin cells as they travel into the dermis where collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid are created. The basal cells in the epidermis are the most active as they produce daughter cells that will eventually reach the skin’s surface and be sloughed off. Over circulated skin is more reactive and prown to conditions like rosacea. Turmeric Exosomes have incredible skin calming, healing and soothing properties. Under circulated skin looks dull and flaccid. Niacinamide helps strengthen capillary walls along with Vitamin C. Your esthetician should focus on performance ingredients that either stimulate or calm your skin.

   
   

6. Pigmentation: Quality skin has a consistent even coloring throughout the face without excessive pigmentation, redness, or sun spots that occur over time. Sunscreen is imparative for even pigmentation. This practice should start early in life. When estrogen starts to wane during perimenopause damage from the sun that could have happened decades earlier may suddenly appear. Make sure you are applying an SPF of 30 or higher sunscreen every day, year round. UVA rays are just as strong in winter as in summer. One should pair their sunscreen with an antioxidant serum. Antioxidant's boost your sunscreen protection. Incorporate an array of antioxidant serums like Vitamin C and Superfruits. Different antioxidants have different modes of skin protection. Some are polyphenols that calm and lycopene to help against photo damage. Lycopene has been shown to help prevent sun damage when layered with sunscreen. Uneven pigmentation can be diminished with the use of botanical brighteners. Brighten Up contains Tranexamic Acid which is a powerful ingredient that helps brighten skin and reduce dark spots. It interferes with melanin production by blocking the interaction between melanocytes and keratinocytes.

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Luminosity or "Glow"

Good skin quality means your skin is well hydrated, smooth, and resilient, regardless of age. It is maintained through consistent skincare, sun protection, and a healthy lifestyle.

Elizabeth believes in "Longevity Skincare", the idea that beautiful skin can endure throughout one's lifetime when utilizing the best that science and nature has to offer. In her forty plus years as a master esthetician Elizabeth discovered what really works, what truly makes a difference in creating a beautiful complexion. Longevity by Elizabeth Renee is a science-based skincare line that appreciates skin of all ages. As skin changes throughout your life you can keep looking youthful and vibrant, no matter what your chronological age. Longevity by Elizabeth Renee is a line that provides hydration, nutrition and protection from environmental aging. Your skin will receive high performance ingredients to help energize and repair its cells, resulting in a healthy skin with an enduring, vital glow.